Today we took the Bo Hengy II, also known as the “fast ferry,” to Harbour Island.  We are in a group of out islands just off the north end of Eleuthera, including Spanish Wells, Harbour Island, Royal Island, Egg Island, and Russell Island.  While Spanish Wells is a quiet fishing village with neat well maintained houses and yards, a few restaurants, one small marina and one very small mooring field, Harbour Island is quite the opposite.  It is a tourist destination with resorts, upscale restaurants, very busy streets, and populated beaches.  We found all this out after we got there.

The trip over was fun.  It cost $25 one way, $40 round trip.  We opted to hire Mr. Pinder to pick us up at 7 pm in his car and small ferry so we could stay longer than if we took the fast ferry, which returns at 4 pm.  We sped through the coral fields at about 35 kts on the Bo Hengy II.  In the photo at the left, taken off the aft deck of the ferry, the wake can be seen winding back and forth through the treacherous coral. 

When we arrived, we realized we had not picked up the Spanish Wells map on the ferry so we walked to the tourist bureau to get one, leaving Bill and Judy (Jubilee) and Bruce and Susan (Andiamo 35) behind.  We thought we’d run into them later but didn’t.  The first thing we saw was a funeral procession coming down the main street.  We knew this was a big funeral as we saw signs in store and restaurant windows indicating they were closed to attend the service.  The ladies were dressed in beautiful black dresses and ornate hats while all of the men and boys wore black suits.  A few ladies had lilac dresses on and many of the women wore large lilac silk flower corsages.  Later we saw them at the cemetery, singing and releasing balloons (photos below).  Most vehicles in Harbour Island are golf carts, so the funeral procession also included a line of them.

We had a delicious lunch at the Pink Sands Resort.  Our entrees were only $18 which was a bargain at this trendy resort.  We sat on the patio overlooking the Atlantic Beach.  The photo below was taken from this vantage point and there are horses on the beach also.  When we walked by the restaurant a few hours later, we saw that it was set up for a wedding.  This was no doubt a “destination wedding” with the guests staying at the Pink Sands Resort.

We walked on the beach, meandered through the streets, went into a few stores, and had delicious ice cream at a pizza restaurant.  At 6:30 we returned to the dock to wait for our ferry and van ride back to Spanish Wells.  While we were waiting for Bill, Judy, Susan and Bruce, we saw a chicken and her little chicks walking on the side of the busy street.  Hopefully they made it safely home as the golf carts were not looking down at the street as the raced by.  Chickens and roosters roam free in all of the settlements we have visited in The Bahamas.  We aren’t sure if they are protected, but they are never seen in cages or fenced yards.  Even in this populated city, they were everywhere.

At 6:30 we took a short ferry ride from Harbour Island to Eleuthera ($5) to meet Mr. Pinder, our ferry and van driver back to Spanish Wells. He met us there and drove us in a van to a dock where his small ferry was located.  He parked his van in a garage and we boarded his ferry (photo left) to cross the short distance from Eleuthera back to Spanish Wells.  We each paid him $20 for his service, which actually ended up being a mini tour of northern Eleuthera.

Overall it was a great day but for some reason we were exhausted.  Perhaps we do better in quiet, calm deserted beaches and towns where everyone greets you with a smile and wave.  I’m sure the residents of Harbour Island are friendly - their welcome sign says so - but there are a lot of tourists at the resorts, condos, and marinas and they seem more interested in shopping and driving fast in their golf carts.  Perhaps we are spoiled now and when we get back to civilization in the States, we will have an adjustment to make.